06 July 2014

Dad´s Trip to Spain: Navarra!

Ever since I arrived in Navarra I´ve been dying to visit the north. Unfortunately, without a car its basically impossible (and some stupid laws in Spanish mean that because I´m a Spanish resident, my US license is no longer valid here). Having Dad around though meant we could get a rental car and drive from San Sebastian down to Tudela, taking a long and winding 10 hour trip with lots of pit stops through the entire province of Navarra. And OH MY GOD NORTHERN NAVARRA! All I'd ever imagined and then more.

First stop after leaving San Sebastian was crossing the border over to France to see Sare and try a Gateau Basque, a typical cream filled kind of pie that is very typical of this region. Sare is part of Pays Basque, the French Basque Country and it was fascinating to see the two languages and culturals coexist, since I´m so accustomed to seeing the Spanish Basques.

The beautiful drive into Sare
Successfully ordered this in French! 
The Basque flag and French flag flying side by side.
From Sare we crossed back over the border into Spain to Zugarramurdi, a tiny village, population of 200, that is famous for one reason: the witch trials of 1610 (the Spanish equivalent of the Salem Witch trials) when 40 women from the town were accused of practicing witchcraft in the caves of Zugarramurdi . In addition to walking around the beautiful little pueblo, you can also go and visit the witch caves..

A little Basque pony on the drive into Zugarramurdi
Zugarramurdi
The witch caves!
The entrance of the main cave

Wandering around the beautiful town


From Zugarramurdi, we continued south through the Valle del Baztán, stopping in the capital of the region, the little town of Elizondo for lunch and to pick up some of the dark chocolate with hazelnut that the area is famous for.

I want to live right here on this bridge. Elizondo was beautiful.
Green green green green!

We made one last stop to do a quick walking tour of Pamplona to see the capital of Navarra before continuing south to Tudela. They were beginning preparations for San Fermines so it was cool to see them setting up the barriers for the running of the bulls!


The city hall of Pamplona, where the chupinazo to officially start San Fermines is taking place right now (July 6th)

Driving the entire length of Navarra was incredible, especially to see the astounding diversity for such a small region- beginning in the mountainous, green, incredibly Basque northern border of the state (the only radio stations were in French or Basque, nothing in Spanish!) watching the hills get progressively smaller, the color become less green and more yellows and browns, and the frequency of Basque road signs decrease until finally reaching the dry desert of Spanish speaking Tudela!

My tour of Tudela included all of my favorite spots in the town: the cathedral, the river, my school, my favorite bars and cafes, Tudela´s prettiest views and plazas

Plaza Mercadal
Tudela as seen from the Torre Monreal

We caught the San Juan fiestas one night

And of course tried the best of Tudela food: tomatoes, artichokes, asparagus, borraja croquettes...
Clams with borraja, a typical Tudela vegetable

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